Would love to try your products. My dilemma is that I have no garage to apply the products to my truck. It is kept outside all year. What is my best option for product? Thanks, Mark

Hey Mark! Great question. I, much like most of our weekend warriors I would imagine, am in the same boat as you. My car sits outside under a pear tree 365 days out of the year.

So, right out of the gate, we never recommend detailing on hot surfaces or in direct sunlight. I know, sometimes it just can’t be avoided, but do your best – early mornings or late afternoons and you can mist surfaces with water to try and cool them down as best you can. After that… the routine is pretty much the same.

The Exterior:

  1. Soap – Xtreme Suds
  2. Glass/Window Cleaner – Bling (it’s made with distilled water so there are absolutely zero impurities in it and it’s a little thicker so it clings to where you spray it)
  3. Surface Prep for Claying – X-Lube
  4. All-Purpose Cleaner – Tsunami. I’m probably going to list this guy twice. Tsunami is one of our newer products. We call it a Specialty Cleaner since its versatility is just incredible!
    Depending on how much you dilute this product, this super concentrated formula can be used on EVERY surface of your vehicle! I’ve listed the dilutions below – parts water to parts chemical
    i. 8:1 – Upholstery/Headliners
    ii. 4:1 – Exteriors, Jams, Trim, etc
    iii. 2:1 – Engine Compartments
    iv. 1:1 – Wheel/Rim Cleaner
  5. Problem Wheels – BR 211. BR 211 is a non-acid wheel cleaner. This is an extremely strong, highly alkaline product. This stuff is no joke, so please use caution when using it. But, if you’re looking for a super strong wheel cleaner that doesn’t require any kind of agitation, look no further!
    a. If you need a wheel cleaner but you don’t want to worry about someone burning their face off or smoking a rim, I would suggest our new Yellow Jacket or The Juice. Yellow Jacket is considered to be an “old school” degreaser but is extremely effective on rim and tires. I wouldn’t recommend using it on interiors, since if you don’t clean it all up and/or wash it all away, it can dry leaving a white residue. The Juice has been referred to as “basically a a degreaser on steroids” and is phenomenal at attacking the browning in the tires and brake dust on rims.
  6. Tire Dressing – Longevity. It’s thick and gelatinous. Apply it with an applicator, brush or a good old fashioned microfiber. Let it set and it forms a terrific glossy seal on your tire.

If your compounding keep reading. If not skip to # 9. Also, keep in mind, Compounds, Glazes and Polishes are very Pad Dependent. You can get more or less out of a single product depending on the pad you use.

  1. Compounding – Tricky to say since I don’t know the condition of the vehicle, but as my barber always says, “You can always cut more, you can’t cut less.” I’d start with LVR 503 Dynamic Cut or LVR 500 Flawless. They are real user-friendly compounds, about 1500 grit sand scratch (depending on the pad), finishes REAL nice, and has absolutely zero dusting. We can always go more and if it’s not bad, you can certainly go less. But that’s where I’d start. The LVR 503 Dynamic Cut is a straight up compound – it will finish at the same strength as it starts. The LVR 500 Flawless Cut is a diminishing compound that reduces down on itself to become a polish. So, it starts out with a good bite, but quickly becomes a polish – so LVR 500 is more a a true “one stepper”.
  2. Glazes vs Polishes:
    a. There are two schools of thought (or methodology) when it comes to Paint Correction. One process, is to protect the clear coat and minimize the removal of any clear coat, while the other seeks to do a “true” paint correction and removal of imperfections in the layer of the clear coat. This would be the biggest difference between our LVR 403/404 and our LVR 367 ICE or LVR 496 Finale. LVR 403 Foam Pad Polishing Glaze and 404 Helios Polishing Glaze use acrylics to fill in and blend any paint imperfections. LVR 367 Ice Polish uses micro-abrasives and silica fluids to physically remove the paint imperfections. Whereas LVR 496 Finale uses more “body shop safe” lubricants to allow the abrasives to due their job.

b. A polish is designed to remove minor surface imperfections such as scratches, spotting and oxidation. Polishes work with abrasives and/or chemical cleaners to flatten or level, the surface. For example, a clear coat scratch can reflect light from its microscopic edges. That’s what makes it stand out from the surrounding area. A polish can smooth out, or level, the edges, reducing the amount of light the scratch reflects. In many cases, a polish can completely remove minor surface scratches and other imperfections.

c. A glaze on the other hand is a gloss enhancing product that is applied after polishing to fill in any remaining imperfections that polishing may not be able to tackle. This additional step, while not always necessary, will add even more depth when wax is applied over it. By filling in micro-imperfections, light is more evenly and symmetrically reflected, giving the car a clean, crisp, deep, and lustrous shine that a simple polish and wax just can’t match. By glazing after polishing you’re only adding more of a shine to your vehicle’s finish.

  1. Toppers – Waxes and Sealants
    a. A wax or sealant is designed to enhance and protect a previously polished and/or glazed surface. This protection is necessary to keep airborne pollutants, road film and other contaminants from sticking to the surface, causing potentially long term damage. Some single-step products combine the cut of a polish with the shine and protection of a wax. They work great when speed is important, but are not as effective as a two-step or three-step polish/glaze/wax process.
  2. i. PolySeal – Hybrid Polymer & Sealant
    PolySeal is truly amazing and is revolutionizing the detailing industry! PolySeal is a hybrid sealant. It is a synthetic wax infused with SiO2. The SiO2 is bonded with the synthetic wax and the wax is what sticks to your vehicle’s surface! The result is, that not only can you apply it to any surface, but you get the very best of both worlds! You get that velvety smoothness and high shine of a wax, as well as, that great hydrophobic protection of a ceramic coating! Typically, if you don’t do anything extra and your vehicle is your daily driver, PolySeal can last up to 3 months of protection (garage kept, it will last even longer).

There is no cure time for PolySeal. It does not need to be kept dry after applying.

PolySeal can be applied directly to a wet car and messaged in to help as a drying aide, or it can be applied to a dry car using a damp microfiber cloth. Let it set and then buff to a brilliant gloss using a dry microfiber cloth!

ii. Topper – Top Coat Lubricant & Protectant
Topper – Top Coat Lubricant & Protectant is ultimate “topper” available on the market today! Silica infused, Topper brings unparalleled hyper-slickness, gloss and a mirror-like reflection! Topper is detergent resistant and uses cross-linking polymers to protect your vehicle’s top coat. Super user friendly, Topper can be applied to wet or dry surfaces and is totally safe to use on top of your current protectant; be it wax, ceramic or even other silica coatings!

iii. LVR 357 Magnum Wax
Magnum Wax is a breakthrough in technology that introduces a new dimension of gloss and protection. This new formula produces deep, vibrant color and a clear wet-look. LVR 357 Magnum Wax provides outstanding water beading and protection against corrosion, oxidation UV-rays and surface containments. The amino-resin reinforced acrylic formula builds incredible protection and reduces surface tension. Water beads up and sheets off the paint finish. LVR 357 Magnum Wax can protect up to a year! It’s truly a remarkable product.

The Interior:

  1. All-Purpose Cleaner – Tsunami. Yep, I listed it twice.
    a. Depending on how much you dilute this product, this super concentrated formula can be used on EVERY surface of your vehicle! I’ve listed the dilutions below – parts water to parts chemical
    i. 8:1 – Upholstery/Headliners/Leather/Pleather/Plastics/Vinyl
    ii. 4:1 – Exteriors, Jams, Trim, etc.
    iii. 2:1 – Engine Compartments
    iv. 1:1 – Wheel/Rim Cleaner
  2. Leather Interior – Leather Magic. This is my favorite product that we sell. I have a leather interior and every time I use it, my car smells like a brand new car! Cleans, conditions, nice satin finish. It’s just a great product.
  3. Dash/Center Console/Steering Wheel – White Rally Dressing. It just a real nice dressing. Kind of like our version of Armor All, but not made with alcohol so it won’t dry out/crack the surface you’re cleaning.
  4. Glass/Window Cleaner – Bling (it’s made with distilled water so there are absolutely zero impurities in it and it’s a little thicker so it clings to where you spray it
  5. Odor Control – Oder Remediation. Nice neutral/pleasant scent. Using a “Febreze”-like technology that not only encapsulates the odor by dissolves it at the source.

To Sum Up the list:

Exterior Liquids:

  1. Xtreme Suds
  2. X-Lube
  3. Bling
  4. Tsunami
  5. BR 211 or Yellow Jacket or The Juice
  6. Longevity

Compounds, Glazes, Polishes, Waxes, Sealants

  1. Compound – LVR 503 Dynamic Cut
  2. Polish – LVR 367 ICE or LVR 496 Finale
  3. Glaze – LVR 403 Foam Pad Polishing Glaze (darker cars) / LVR 404 Helios Polishing Glaze (lighter colored cars)
  4. Wax/Sealant – LVR 357 Magnum Wax OR Poly-Seal OR Topper

Interior Liquids

  1. Tsunami
  2. Leather Magic
  3. White Rally
  4. Bling
  5. Odor Remediation

Well, I think that just about covers everything. Let me know if I left anything out or if you have any other questions.

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